Showing posts with label Kayak Fishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kayak Fishing. Show all posts

Sunday, 30 March 2014

Kayak fishing - on your own



Best Fishing Kayak - Ocean Kayak Prowler 15 Angler Edition

This month I was supposed to have been on a trip exploring Cuvier Island and the Merc’s to complement July’s article on setting up for mother-ship trips.
Unfortunately, Tawhiri (the god of weather) had other ideas and our trip was blown out. The resulting swells were too big to safely launch the kayaks to chase the hapuku and kingfish we wanted, so we’ll rebook and bring the mother-ship story at a later date.
This month I’m also setting up for something at the other end of the spectrum – going solo!
With breaks in the weather, but everyone else tied up at work, I’ll be taking the opportunity to turn the clock back 20 years and head out on several kayak-fishing trips on my lonesome. It’s a unique experience these days to hit the water and be the only kayaker around. But winter is definitely the best time for this, as there’s plenty of room to camp, there’s no other traffic to disturb the fish, and the angling north of the Harbour Bridge is nothing short of superb.

Paddling alone – safety considerations

Kayak fishing is a relatively safe sport, but when going solo a little extra care is required. The key consideration – especially during winter – becomes weather conditions (aside from making sure you have the appropriate paddling skills). Remember, the water is cold, so be conservative; it makes a lot of sense to paddle and fish well within your level of expertise and save the rough stuff for times when others are around to assist. (Besides, it’s fun sharing the thrills with buddies who’re out there enjoying them, too.)
The next concern is how to deal with the unlikely event of a roll over. When going it alone, our biggest potential problem is somehow becoming separated from our craft. Ending up over the side might be the result of rough conditions, taking good conditions too lightly (very embarrassing, but it happens!), or as a result of big, unruly fish. Heavy string pullers can drag us in after them or break the line while under pressure, causing us to flip back over the other side of the kayak.
For most of us, the best way to ensure we stay connected with our kayak is to use a good leash system for the paddle and rods. Generally speaking, as kayak anglers we have one or another in our hands most of the time; so long as we don’t let go while tumbling into the water, there’s very little chance of losing contact with our kayak. The key point to remember is that paddle and rod leashes serve two purposes: they keep your equipment attached to the kayak, but can also keep you attached to your kayak. So make sure they’re regularly maintained and inspected for any signs of wear, and replace them as necessary, especially when paddling solo.
Personal tethers are another option that’s been discussed on several occasions in the past. These can be a good option for experienced paddlers with the appropriate buoyancy vests and systems, who are also familiar with the risks of using them (entanglement, especially with other equipment, is an issue that makes it important to know what you’re doing when working with personal tethers). However, for most of us fishing coastal waters recreationally, using leashes on paddles and rods should provide enough security to prevent being separated from our kayak without the need for a personal tether.
Another area worth considering when paddling alone is terminal tackle. When running lures with multiple hooks or trebles, I like to close the barbs; there’s always the risk of a fish flailing free hooks around until they pin nearby flesh or clothing; ‘barbless’ hooks are much easier to extract. I also suggest removing terminal tackle from rods before returning to the beach, eliminating any chance of getting pinned if a tumble is taken while endeavouring to return to dry land.
Another safety pointer to consider involves preparing all baits before heading out on the water. When fishing solo, I’m often staying away from areas where buying bait is possible. At such times I like to convert fresh-caught kahawai, trevally and mackerel into strip or butterfly baits – but choose to do so before launching to minimize any risks with using knives in kayak cockpits. It’s not that I consider it likely I’ll cut myself, it’s just that relatively minor incidents like this take on greater significance when there’s no one else around to lend a hand (for example, a cut finger or hand may make paddling difficult or even impossible).

Communication

To my mind, communication is one of the most important things a solo paddler can put in place; let someone know your intentions, keep them updated, and let them know what to do if you don’t report back by a certain time. After all, while we don’t want to dwell on the negatives of going it alone, it’s also important to minimise the potential risks these adventures entail. This can be very inconvenient, especially when in remote areas, but having someone keeping watch means the alarm will be raised in a timely manner if you can’t initiate it yourself. In part, this is also out of respect for those who may have to come looking for you, with a starting point helping to ensure a rapid and favourable search result.
Having a VHF radio will help you to stay in contact with the coastguard and is critical to communicating effectively with other boating traffic in the area. Add a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) to the mix and you’re doing the best you can to being able to raise the alarm if needed. It’s also a very good idea for solo paddlers to carry a strobe and flares so they can be seen as well as heard.

Let’s go fishing

Okay, enough of the serious stuff, what about the fishing? I start with selecting a ‘relaxed’ launching spot, one where I have easy access to the water and where I’m not confronted with a serious surf transition. Personally, I’d rather paddle a little extra distance from an easy launch area than sweat it getting the kayak to the water, especially if I then have to transition through some rough stuff. Yes, I’m there for an adventure, but I also want to enjoy myself.
Northland, Coromandel, the Bay of Plenty, and East Cape all have many spots with good access and shelter from varying wind directions and conditions. This is one of the big advantages of kayaking: our craft are so easy to transport, we can rapidly relocate to find shelter if the weather doesn’t play ball. If prepared to travel, there are few periods where a sheltered area to launch and fish from cannot be found.
In angling terms I find the only real difference between fishing solo and heading out with mates is making sure you have absolutely everything you need before leaving the beach. It’s definitely worthwhile taking a bit more care when preparing, paying particular attention to nets and/or gaffs, as there won’t be anyone to lend a hand with that big one. Nor will there be a mate to sponge tackle off if something important has been left behind. It’s often the ridiculously simple stuff that catches us out: hooks, pre-tied rigs, swivels, clips, jig heads, jigs, rigging tools (like your trusty braid scissors), so check the lot.

Don’t forget the camera!

This is something I’ve been guilty of in the past: having so much fun I forget to take the photos. I then cop it from mates when telling tales of high adventure and big fish, “If it’s not on film, it never happened!” Even if you don’t have a waterproof camera, or one in a dive housing, most of us have a mobile phone in a dry bag capable of taking reasonable images (and you should have it with you anyway as part of your communication kit).
Another bit of gear I’ve found invaluable when going solo is a tripod. Having one has enabled me to take many self-portraits with my catch over the years, adding the personal touch to mark successful trips. Tripods range from the little travel models with bendy legs easily carried aboard the kayak to the more traditional extendable-leg models grabbed from the car and set up to record the event afterwards. These offer a greater range of perspective and also make it much easier to collect low-light or flash images.
This is the time to explore new spots; you have the coast to yourself, with clear blue water and big fish (though this time I had my mate Milky there to snap the photos).
Remember to get photos however you can. If out there alone, don’t be shy about flagging down a boat and getting them to snap the shot; most are more than willing, and it’ll give you a chance to show off too.
Turning the clock back 20 years to when catching snapper from kayaks was so unheard of no one believed the writer’s success. Here he used the butt end of a fence post to support a camera, in lieu of a tripod.
If your mates reckon it’s too cold, leave them behind and go solo – the rewards speak for themselves.
Paddle and rod leashes: these are more than just a means of keeping equipment attached to the kayak, they also keep your kayak within reach if you end up in the water. Make sure they’re regularly inspected and kept in good condition.
Tripods, cameras and accessories; take the time to get stills and video of solo exploits. After all, ‘if it’s not on film it never happened…’
- See more at: http://www.fishing.net.nz/index.cfm/pageid/56/view/yes/editorialID/1396#sthash.mQo6Uvzr.dpuf

Sunday, 17 February 2013

Hobie Kayak Owners Manual, part 2 of 2


Hobie Kayak Owners Manual, part 1 of 2


Friday, 15 February 2013

Hobie Mirage Sport Fisherman

 

The Hobie Mirage Sport Fisherman was designed for youth and adults who are smaller in stature or the six-footer who's looking for an extremely light-weight pedaling kayak. Move the seat forward and adjust the Mirage Drive to accommodate users as small as four feet. Pedal it, paddle it or sail it … it's the mini-SUV of the Hobie kayak family.

Hobie Mirage Sport Fisherman

Features & Specifications

Hobie Mirage Sport Fisherman

Specifications

  • 9' 7"
  • 19 1/2"
  • 45 lbs. (Add 6.6 lbs. for MirageDrive)
  • 245 lbs.

Fishing Kayak Features

  • Rotomolded Polyethylene Hull with Color-coordinated Molded-in Graphics
  • Color Choices: Ivory Dune and Olive
  • Note: Ivory Dune and Olive Boats Feature Fish Graphics
  • Hobie Mirage Drive Mechanism
  • Spare Rudder Pin In Aft Hatch Lid
  • Steering System with Kick-up “Twist and Stow” Rudder
  • Rear Cargo Storage Area
  • Deluxe Lumbar-support High-profile Plug-in Seatback with Detachable Pack
  • Deluxe Two-piece Paddle
  • Gear Bucket
  • Adjustable Seat Positioning to Accomodate Full Range of Kayakers
  • Scuppers Accept Plug-in Kayak Cart
  • On-Deck Receptacle with Cap for Sail Mast, Dive Flag, etc.
  • Cassette Plug for Drive Well
  • Molded-in Drink Holder
  • Molded-in Fishing Rod Holders with Caps
  • On-hull Paddle Storage
  • Mesh-covered Stowage Pocket
  • Bungee® Tie Down Straps for Rear Cargo Area
  • Padeyes
  • Bow and Stern Carrying Handles
  • PCB Water Bottle

The Mirage Sport Package also includes

  • Two round "Twist and Seal" Storage Hatches
  • Mid-Boat Carrying Grip
  • Molded-in Utility Trays
Hobie Mirage Sport Fisherman - $1699.00



Full Article:   Backyard Boats

Monday, 28 January 2013

Ultimate Fishing Kayak


How to Build a Flat Bottomed Boat


Straitedge Angler(Kayak)



Advanced Elements

Straitedge Angler

AE1006-ANG

For Kayak Fishing


IN STOCK

Ships To: Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Indonesia, South Korea, South Philippines, Taiwan, Thailand, Australia, China, India, Japan, New Zealand, Vietnam

Note: Paddles and pumps sold separately

About Advanced Elements
Advanced Elements is a leader in designing and manufacturing inflatable kayaks. Easy to inflate and portable, the Advanced Elements kayaks can be quickly setup in minutes. By incorporating quality materials with the latest technology, Advanced Elements strives to produce high quality, performance kayaks at a reasonable price. Whether for leisure, touring, fishing, sport, adventure, or simply paddling exercise, with so many models to choose from, there is bound to be one kayak design suitable for your paddling and watersport needs. Trust the Advanced Elements brand for a safe and enjoyable paddling experience!

Every kayak purchase from ActiveSports comes with a Singapore and Asia warranty and servicing support. All Advanced Elements Kayaks purchases have 1-year limited warranty. Advanced Elements, Inc warrants the kayaks to be free from defects in material or workmanship for a period of 1 year from the date of purchase. Products that prove to be defective under conditions of normal and proper use during the warranty period will be replaced or repaired without charge.



Product DescriptionThe Advanced Elements Inflatable Kayaks are durable, light-weight and patented designs, built with cutting edge technology. These kayaks can be easily packed into a bag and be brought anywhere for paddling. With Advanced Elements Kayaks, you are always ready for your next kayaking adventure.
The Advanced Elements Straitedge Angler is designed with the needs of the kayak angler in mind. Its wide beam provides maximum stability while bringing in big catches. The Advanced Elements Straitedge Angler include the Accessory Mounting Rail and comes with an ultra-comfortable high back seat with two rod holders and an inflatable lumbar support for long hours kayaking on water. It also has added abrasion pads and multi air chambers to provide maximum durability for aggressive conditions. With stainless steel D-rings, bungee deck lacing for abundant gear storage, paddle holders, the Straitedge Angler is the kayak fishing enthusiasts have been waiting for!

Product Specifications


ColorLengthWidthWeightMaxweightChambersFolded size
Yellow/Gray294cm89cm18kg136kg530 x 17 x 10 inches

Product Features

  1. Hull Design: Built-in aluminum ribs define the bow and stern and improve tracking.
  2. Versatile: The Accessory Mounting Bar gives the ability to mount aftermarket rod holders, fish finder and other equipment.
  3. Easy to Set Up: PreAssembled at the factory. Simply unfold, inflate and attach the seat.
  4. Comfortable: High support, adjustable lumbar seat provides comfort for hours of paddling.
  5. Durable: Abrasion Pads in high use area for maximum durability.

Product Includes

  1. Carrying Duffel Bag
  2. Lumbar Seat
  3. Repair Kit
  4. Owner Manual
  5. Rod Holders
  6. Accessory Mounting Rail
 
Product Advice
What you need to buy to get started.
Advanced Elements inflatable kayaks - Besides selecting the kayak, please choose a foot pump or a hand pump for inflating and deflating the kayak and add a paddle from the range of paddles available to complete your package. For a basic package, you will need a kayak, a pump, a paddle and a PFD/life vest to get started.

The Twilight Paddle is the most popular standard paddle. The Packlite paddle is a lighter paddle and has smaller blade surface area which can make paddling easier on the arms. The Touring paddle has light weight features, a bigger blade surface area for more power output. The Adaptour paddle has adjustable angle feature for better performance paddling. The Axis Fibreglass Paddle is ultra-light compared to the rest and it is made of fibreglass.

The Bellows Foot pump is the basic pump for inflation and deflation. The Double Action Hand pump saves time on inflation and deflation compared to the Bellows Foot Pump. The Double Action Hand Pump with pressure gauge allows you to check the pressure reading.

When purchasing a two seater kayak, remember to select a quantity of 2 paddles for tandem paddling.

All AE Kayaks come with an instruction manual on proper inflation and deflation techniques. You can register for warranty by mailing the form to AE or registering via online website.

Exercise safety by wearing life vests at all times. Check the weather, tide tables and inform or go with a buddy for day trips out at sea.

AE Kayaks are US patented designed kayaks made of durable, high quality materials. Take proper care and maintenance to ensure the look and feel of your kayak. Use water to wash off salt water and allow time to dry and store properly after each use.

Inflate and deflate air properly. About 50% of the air should be pumped via the first main chamber valve and the remaining 50% in the second main chamber. Never over inflate or force more air into the kayak. Deflate air by using the pump. Do not force air out by sitting on the kayak or folding the air out.

With proper care and maintenance, your kayak can last a good many years.

Tuesday, 22 January 2013

Review: Native Watercraft "Slayer 12"

Written by
 
While in Virginia Beach, VA for the Columbus Day Boondoggle, I got to meet Woody Callaway from Liquidlogic Kayaks. Strapped to the trailer of the Liquidlogic RV was their newest kayak: the Native Watercraft “Slayer”. I jokingly asked Woody when I would be fishing out of the Slayer, and without hesitation, he said, “Tomorrow!”.

Initial impressions: The Native Watercraft Slayer 12 is clean and uncluttered - everything had its purpose. The overall lines on the kayak are very sleek with everything recessed nicely.
Portability: The Slayer 12 is listed at 70 lbs., but felt lighter. This is probably due to all the handles being solid, allowing you to control the kayak much more easily. All Slayers come equipped with the “Tag Along Wheel”. I tested it at the launch with the kayak fully loaded with gear. The Tag Along Wheel made the move from the car to the launch a breeze. The solid bow handle positioned horizontally made controlling the kayak extremely easy. This was the first stand-out feature of the Slayer that sets it apart from other similar kayaks.
Native Slayer Forward
Performance: On the water, you quickly feel like you’re paddling a much skinner kayak. The Slayer handled well in both stand up paddling and standard sitting paddling. The raised seated position felt tippier than the lower seated position, but this is the case with all kayaks.
The second stand out feature was the High Low First Class Seat. Switching between the high and low seated positions was very simple. Native uses bungees to hold the seat in place, so a simple lift and scoot allowed me to move it between positions without having to undo straps or clips. I did initially have concerns over the seat only being secured this way, but Native did a great job of molding the seat pan area to allow a nice, snug fit. The seat never felt loose or unsecure in either position, and was extremely comfortable.
Another positive was an extremely shallow draft. There are several sandbars out at Lynnhaven Bay that were no deeper than 6 inches, and I was able to paddle across them without issue.
Native Slayer Standing
Standability: I have yet to stand in a 31” wide kayak that felt this stable. The deck is very flat; I always had a stable position for my feet. The deck is right at or slightly below the waterline, which gives the kayak extra stability. One issue with the deck being this low is with the scupper plugs removed, water does come in slightly. I also feel the Slayer would benefit from adding a strap towards the bow to help in standing from the lower position.
Fishability: The Slayer is equipped with recessed groove tracks on the stern, midship and bow. This made it very easy for me to quickly add a couple of Scotty mounts and my YakAttack “Panfish”. There is also a small console designed to store your battery, and also mount any electronics you like to a groove track. The model I used had the groove track mounted directly to the console but Woody told me that the new models with have the track recessed like all the others.
The foam padding around the cup holder, accessory tray, and rod tip rests is a nice touch. The rod tip rests fit my bait casters, but didn’t fit my spinning rods very well; the larger guides on the spinning rods didn’t allow the rods to rest properly.
While on the water, I didn’t even notice the Plano box storage on the side of the seats. This would have made changing out tackle much easier with my Plano boxes right next to me.
While anchored or staked out, the Slayer would benefit greatly from an anchor trolley. I also noticed the Tag Along Wheel knocking with the side to side movement of the kayak. I mentioned this to Woody, and he said that it was an easy fix. I also missed a paddle keeper, there are no paddle keepers installed by the factory so you will have to add them yourself.
Native Slayer Redfish
The final stand-out feature is the Slayers stability. I was able to fish all day in the kayak, turn around and grab tackle out of my crate, and access my gear in the bow without issue. When we got back to the launch, several others tried out the Slayer. People who have never stood in a kayak easily stood and paddled the Slayer.
Native Slayer Chip Standing
Summary: I believe the Native Watercraft Slayer 12 will be in the running for next year’s KACA’s as Kayak of the Year. It’s stable, tracks well, is quick and nimble for a wider kayak, is easily moved using the Tag Along Wheel, and has a seating system that allows you to move from high to low seating positions with ease. When I’m in the market for a new paddling kayak, I’m almost positive it will be a Slayer!


Boat SpecsBoat Features
Length: 12'
Width: 31"
Weight: 70 lbs
Capacity: 400 lbs
Groove Track
High/Low First Class Seat
Electronics Console
Cup Holder
Open Bow Hatch w/ Scuppers
Quiet Stable Hull
Tag Along Wheel

 
 
 

Offshore kayak set up


It’s Lightline Time: Safety in the Night

 Written by Ben Hoover    

There’s nothing like the feeling of creeping under the darkness of a bridge to see a group of stripers stacked like cordwood, picking your target, and hooking up. As temperatures drop around the Mid-Atlantic, stripers are gravitating to lighted structure, creating some of the best fishing of the year for kayak anglers.

Catching these fish is usually simple, but it’s easy to forget the dangers lurking in the dark: wind, weather, waves, and powerboats, among others. This is a simple primer on the incidentals of lightline fishing, beyond the catch; anglers far better versed than I have covered these topics in extensive detail.
*The opinions expressed in this user-submitted review are those of the reviewer, and do not necessarily reflect the view of YakAngler.com.
A lightline trip begins with a last-minute check of the weather and tides to ensure that we’re not heading out into the proverbial washing machine, or worse. Some chop is good, as it seems to fire up the fish and keep the crowds off the water. A placid night can turn in an instant, so keeping an eye or ear on your phone (http://www.yakangler.com/blogs/user-blogs/item/1675-there-is-an-app-for-that) or weather radio is wise, though somewhat difficult with the promise of more fish under the next span. Some of us just rely on the forecast and avoid truly questionable nights.

20121011152858 light
At minimum, a good, bright, white light on a tall lightpole is essential if you want to avoid becoming roadkill. The lightline concentrations of fish draw plenty of attention and there are too many people zooming around without regard for their surroundings. The “VISICarbon Pro” from YakAttack is quite popular, and there are many other viable options, including building your own setup from PVC. Reflective tape, strategically placed on your boat and paddle, is likewise a good call. Many lifejackets and marine coats have reflective patches, and it’s easy enough to add them—cheap life insurance. Top it all off with a quality headlamp. If you really want to go all out, you could run this setup and pimp your ride, http://www.yakangler.com/forum/21-look-what-i-did/20870-did-anybody-spot-this-at-the-boondoggle-last-night, or buy a glow-in-the dark boat, http://www.yakangler.com/forum/20-water-cooler/20859-if-you-paddle-alot-at-night. Lights and reflectors are the first line of defense before our whistles or airhorns come out.

20121011152858 benstanding10412
In the early season, clothing is really a no-brainer, but when the air and water temperatures really drop, clothing can make or break a nighttime assault. It almost goes without saying, but this type of fishing requires a comfortable lifejacket that you’ll wear at all times. For an outer layer, most go with a dry top and a pair of waders, or a full-on drysuit. It’s best to turtle-test this outfit under controlled conditions before it becomes truly cold. Underneath the outer shell, layering is key: wicking garments, some wool or fleece, good socks, a hat, and you’re good to go—no cotton! A good pair of wool or neoprene gloves completes the outfit.
“When you’re fishing the lightlines, make sure your head is always on a swivel.” This is perhaps the most important piece of safety advice I’ve received, and it came from a great lightliner, Jeff Greendyk, of Orvis Richmond. For that matter, I typically use the buddy system, so someone is watching my back and ready to help at a moment’s notice. A pair of radios is helpful for calling your buddy if you’re separated by more than a few sets of pilings.
It can get crowded, it can get crazy, and the conditions can be brutal; nevertheless, with a bit of preparation, there’s no better place to be on a cold winter night than under the darkness of a bridge span, hooked up.

20121011152858 Bens10412

About the Author: Ben is an avid kayak angler who plies the waters of Hampton Roads, Virginia with fly and light tackle. A transplanted Yankee, he developed a true taste for the salt after moving south of the Mason-Dixon. He remains loyal to http://www.flyfishersparadiseonline.com/, his employer throughout college. Ben can be found on the water under cover of darkness, waving a stick in a plastic boat.


Full Article:  http://www.yakangler.com/kayak-fishing-techniques/

Tuesday, 15 January 2013

Poor Man's Fishing Kayak


News release: fish’n’tip 0663 kayak fishing bucket list part 3 by rob paxevanos

A REEL HOOT: Big trout and Atlantic salmon are easy and fun from a fishing kayak.














Rob’s weekly FISH’N’TIP 0663 written for the week of Wednesday 14/11/2012

This week I continue my three part special on what species I consider to be on the bucket list for kayak anglers in each Australian State.

Western Australia: This state is so big that in encompasses most of the above freshwater species minus just a few naturally occurring species like wild bass, Golden Perch and Murray Cod, although these are stocked in some private lakes and there are other surprises like reasonable trout fishing in the higher altitude rivers and dams of the SW corner.

The saltwater fishing is exceptional, and all the species mentioned so far inhabit parts of this vast place. Exmouth is one of my favourite spots, you can fish either side of the cape depending on which way the wind is blowing. Amongst the regular tropical speedsters you can reliably target truly rare species like permit and ‘the’ worlds biggest bonefish. Ningaloo reef will blow a kayakers mind every time!

South Australia: Prime spot for southern species that seem to grow much bigger than else where such as kingfish, Snapper, King George Whiting, jewfish and more. But don’t forget that the murray river and it’s tributaries have excellent fishing for Murray Cod and Golden Perch (often called callop in SA.)


Victoria: Inland the drought broke around 3 years ago, and shallow lakes stocked with trout are tuning on some exceptional fishing, trout can be 10 pounds in less than 3 years, and some whoppers are already gracing the decks of kayaks. Some good
Golden Perch and Murray Cod fishing too.

Saltwater contains a variety southern species, the most easy to find of which include flathead, salmon, bream, squid and of course
Snapper.

I spend a lot of time on Port Phillip Bay, and trolling up a
Snapper on a deep diver is a real hoot after 35 years of catching them on bait and plastics (yes plastics 30 years ago-I have some softies more than 40 years old and keen pommy anglers will know an old favourite of mine that is not available any more, the red gill-google that one up! Current favourite is a Storm Pro Shad: brilliant plastic for many reasons.

Tasmania: While there is some awesome XL
Black Bream, bluefin tuna and also bread and butter species like flathead, garfish, and squid), the trout fishing is world class.

When half of the country was under water and everyone was stressed to the max, or even suffering the tragic loss of loved ones, Taz was coping better than most places-very broadly speaking they have better infrastructure like roads and dams to deal with regular heavier rain. This makes it easy to travel around, especially now the Spanish Lady La Nina is Singing up the wet stuff more regularly.

Plenty of well know lakes to hit, but in a kayak you can get to some nooks and crannys where bigger boats can’t launch and the fishing is absolutely exceptional. Lakes literally number in their thousands and I have more ‘secret lakes’ down there than you can swing a paddle at!

TIP OF THE ICE BERG.

The above is of course a very small selection of what’s on offer...that is the attraction of yak fishing this vast country-and I for one will never come close to doing it all.

One thing is for sure, whatever you chase you will be enjoying that environment to the max with as little footprint as is possible in this day and age, and gaining some health benefits along the way

See you at water level.

Rob Paxevanos

Footnote: much of the fishing explained here can be found in robs instructional dvd series available at all good tackle stores and online at
www.robpax.com


Full Article:  http://fishnet.com.au/default.aspx?id=234&articleId=8755&memberId=21

Friday, 11 January 2013

Wilderness Systems Kayak - Ride 115

Wilderness Systems Kayak - Ride 115 - CLOSEOUT MODEL - FREE SHIPPING

$759.00
List Price: $849.00
Item:WS - R115
Manufacturer: Wilderness Systems
* denotes required field
SHIPPING*

COLOR*
ADD RUDDER (+ $175.00)
 

SPECIFICATIONS

Length - 11'6" / 351 cmWidth - 33" / 84 cmWeight - 76 lbs* / 35 kg (*with seat removed, kayak weighs 68 lbs / 31 kg)Deck Height - 16.5" / 42 cmSeating Well - 67" x 21.5" / 170 x 55 cmCapacity - 500 lbs / 227 kg

Features

- Freedom Elite Seating System - Orbix Bow + Midship Hatches- Flat-Mount Deck/Console Surfaces- Keepers Foot Brace system- SlideTrax Accessory System (front)- Tankwell with Bungee- Recessed, No-Snag Deck Fittings - Self-Bailing Scupper Holes- Cup Holder with Drain - Rudder Ready- Drain Plug- Skid Plate- Made in the USA

Available Colors

RedYellowNEW CamoBlueOrangeMangoNEW Olive Sand



More Info:  http://kayakfishinggear.com/images/products/detail/WS_Ride_115_Orange_Top.jpg

Bait fishing from a kayak

 


 


How to bait fish from a kayakCertainly when I was land-based fishing this was one of my favourite catch cries. There was nothing like lobbing monster baits into the berley trail and letting the pickers have a field day, while in turn their thrash-and-slash activity attracted the attention of resident moochers.
However, although I started with this big-bait habit when I got into kayak fishing, I soon developed a little finesse with the forerunner to the ‘swimming pillie’ rig I wrote about last month.
When fishing around the coast during the colder months, I discovered great fishing by finding sheltered nooks to take a rest in (somewhere out of the wind and chop to catch my breath) and drifting a few baits while there. Many of these spots weren’t much bigger than my kayak, but allowed me to park without anchor or drogue, and all it took was the occasional dip from the paddle to stay in the shelter.

While resting up I could never resist the opportunity to float cut baits from the side of the kayak, or lob them a few metres away so they wafted out into the wind and wave action stirring the water.
In these situations baits need to have durability to survive the ravages of shallow water pickers. Pilchards, with their thin skins and soft texture, disappeared almost instantly, leaving bare hooks that looked so clean they could have gone back in the packet!
Cut baits of mullet, kahawai, or trevally were the only way to keep resident pickers occupied until snapper lurking in the shadows shouldered in and snaffled the offering.
As already mentioned, I stuck with the philosophy that bigger was better initially, and any fish eating the monster baits was likely to be a worthy opponent. Then the finesse bug bit deep and I began to experiment by trimming my baits into strips and applying some of the techniques I was learning from swimming pillies to mimic live baits.
So began the next stage of my kayak bait-fishing education, and while the techniques mentioned here will be familiar to many, it’s worth covering them again in a little detail. In this day and age of artificial lures and new technology, some of the old techniques can become lost in the magpie effect of acquiring anything that’s new and glittery.

Stink baits – no way, I’ll stick with my softies!

How to bait fish from a kayakI have to chuckle at this comment, it’s one I hear almost every time I bring up bait fishing amongst a group of anglers. My chuckle is that I can spend a day fishing cut and strip baits, and arrive back on the beach with hands and gloves far less odorous than if I’d been exclusively dipping soft-baits out of a pot. And since I’m landing fish on the kayak to bring home for dinner, there’s no difference with the mess being created there. To my mind, if anglers are complaining about the smell of bait fishing, they’re not using the right bait.
Over the years one of my core secrets to catching good fish has been using the best possible bait. Fresh or frozen, perfect baits should be good enough to eat – in other words, food grade. This is even more critical when considering baits like pilchards, which quickly lose their shine and can become soft and unusable when not stored correctly. With cut baits any ‘stink’ means they’re not fresh and long past their use-by date!
In fact, I rate this so highly when purchasing frozen baits, the first thing they have to pass is the whiff test! Any bait that smells straight out of the freezer doesn’t even get a look, and only those that pass get a closer inspection to check if there’s freezer burn or other damage. In reality the whiff test is usually enough; baits with a scruffy appearance rarely smell good enough for me to use.
I know some will find this harsh for selecting what will simply become bait, but I’ve caught most of my PBs fishing natural baits, and I put much of my success down to selecting product that’s virtually good enough to eat. I believe the ‘fresh is best’ adage is far more critical than ‘big baits equal big fish’. I’d rather leave a bait shop empty handed and head for the fish mongers (or supermarket) than put up with inferior bait that smells less than appetising – there aren’t any ‘stink baits’ on my kayak!
Of course the ultimate solution is to catch your own fresh bait. Trolling lures out to many fishing destinations will deliver a kahawai or two, perfect for conversion to strip baits. Also, lots of coastal and harbour areas have spots that can produce mackerel or trevally on small metal jigs and sabiki rigs. Or, for the really dedicated, a pre-dawn swim with a baitfish net should produce enough baits for a day on the water (but I, for one, am rarely keen enough at this time of the year for that sort of lark!).
The other solution is to prepare and store your own bait from one trip to the next. Kahawai, trevally, jack mackerel and koheru all work well. Summer-caught skippies also make fantastic winter baits. The key is to treat them exactly as you would valuable table fish. Land and dispatch them as quickly as possible, then get them into insulated storage or iced down to keep them in top notch condition until they’re processed.
Once home, I like to prepare these fresh-caught fish into baits, and vacuum bag them for freezing rather than leave them whole. This ensures rapid freezing and minimises the degrading effects of freezer burn and other damage. Dating the packs and keeping them small makes it easy to grab what you need for the day without excessive wastage, and ensures older stock is used first. Having the bait pre-prepared makes thawing them much easier, and as there’s no need to drag out the bait board and knife, rigging up is a breeze.

Strip baits or big chunks?

How to bait fish from a kayakThis has been an interesting journey for me. As I mentioned earlier, I started off with the ‘big baits’ attitude, but soon refined what I was doing upon fishing more often with pilchards and other small, whole baits. Basically, this involved my fishing all baits (including cut baits) more actively, considering them as much a lure as a simple piece of meat. It didn’t take long to realise that properly prepared and presented strips of fresh kahawai and trevally were just as effective as pillies when targeting reasonable snapper.
However, there are still times when I’ll lob out big baits, especially when leaning back into my seat to enjoy a relaxing moment. The big advantage is their ability to survive the ravages of pickers until something more desirable comes along. Big baits are at their best wafting in the current, generating their own berley trail and allowing the activity of pickers to help attract larger fish.
Personally I can’t sit ‘resting’ for long though, and the call of the hunt beckons. In pretty short order I am back sounding for the next fish mark to present a bait to.

Preparing baits

How to bait fish from a kayakAs cut baits need a little more effort when preparing them for the hooks than whole baits like pillies or lures and soft-baits, I’ll do this before heading out on the water whenever possible. As mentioned, preparing them prior to freezing is an excellent option. When using frozen whole fish, I like to slow thaw them overnight (in the garage during winter is good enough, in the fridge during the summer – remember, these aren’t smelly baits so they won’t stink out the garage or fridge!). Slow thawing helps stop baits going mushy.
Once thawed, or if using fresh fish, it doesn’t take long at the water’s edge to scale and break large fish into strip baits. It’s far more convenient to do this before heading out (even in the dark) and, once prepared, baits can go into plastic bags for easy use on board. Scraps and leftovers can be taken offshore for berleying or disposal.
When preparing baits on board the kayak, a small amount of forethought and organisation will keep everything clean and tidy. First, I make sure I’m carrying a cutting board and razor-sharp bait knife. The centre-well cover of my kayak has a built-in baitboard that’s conveniently placed as a work platform, but since this has become a mounting area for essential equipment and takes longer to clean, I carry a separate board in the pocket of my rear insulated cover. Here it’s easily accessible and can be moved to where I need it.
The bait knife I use is big enough for a 2kg kahawai, but not so big it becomes unwieldy in the confines of the cockpit.
The critical factor is that it’s razor sharp. This allows me to cut and trim baits easily without using force (also one of the reasons I believe it is essential to thaw baitfish before taking them on board kayaks), considerably reducing any risk of cutting yourself or slipping and damaging equipment on deck.
By making sure fresh-caught fish have been dispatched and left for at least half an hour before processing, any blood produced will be minimised. Simply scale them over the side, remove the fillets, and divide each fillet down the centreline. If fillets are thick, I give them a quick trim so no part is more than 20mm thick. After this, cutting long tapered strips ready for baiting up becomes straightforward.
Clean-up is equally simple: the prepared baits go into a bag kept ready for the purpose, the baitboard and knife are easily rinsed over the side before being stowed away, and any blood dribbles are easily rinsed away with a couple of splashes. No mess, no fuss, and certainly no ‘stink baits’ as some might have you believe, just brilliant fresh baits ready to go.

Source: http://www.fishing.net.nz/index.cfm/pageid/56/view/yes/editorialID/1232
Read More: http://gofishtalk.com/forum/topics/bait-fishing-from-a-kayak