Kayak fishing - on your own

This month I was supposed to have been on a trip exploring Cuvier Island and the Merc’s to complement July’s article on setting up for mother-ship trips.
Unfortunately, Tawhiri (the god of weather) had other ideas and our trip was blown out. The resulting swells were too big to safely launch the kayaks to chase the hapuku and kingfish we wanted, so we’ll rebook and bring the mother-ship story at a later date.
This month I’m also setting up for something at the other end of the spectrum – going solo!
With breaks in the weather, but everyone else tied up at work, I’ll be taking the opportunity to turn the clock back 20 years and head out on several kayak-fishing trips on my lonesome. It’s a unique experience these days to hit the water and be the only kayaker around. But winter is definitely the best time for this, as there’s plenty of room to camp, there’s no other traffic to disturb the fish, and the angling north of the Harbour Bridge is nothing short of superb.

Paddling alone – safety considerations

Kayak fishing is a relatively safe sport, but when going solo a little extra care is required. The key consideration – especially during winter – becomes weather conditions (aside from making sure you have the appropriate paddling skills). Remember, the water is cold, so be conservative; it makes a lot of sense to paddle and fish well within your level of expertise and save the rough stuff for times when others are around to assist. (Besides, it’s fun sharing the thrills with buddies who’re out there enjoying them, too.)
The next concern is how to deal with the unlikely event of a roll over. When going it alone, our biggest potential problem is somehow becoming separated from our craft. Ending up over the side might be the result of rough conditions, taking good conditions too lightly (very embarrassing, but it happens!), or as a result of big, unruly fish. Heavy string pullers can drag us in after them or break the line while under pressure, causing us to flip back over the other side of the kayak.
For most of us, the best way to ensure we stay connected with our kayak is to use a good leash system for the paddle and rods. Generally speaking, as kayak anglers we have one or another in our hands most of the time; so long as we don’t let go while tumbling into the water, there’s very little chance of losing contact with our kayak. The key point to remember is that paddle and rod leashes serve two purposes: they keep your equipment attached to the kayak, but can also keep you attached to your kayak. So make sure they’re regularly maintained and inspected for any signs of wear, and replace them as necessary, especially when paddling solo.
Personal tethers are another option that’s been discussed on several occasions in the past. These can be a good option for experienced paddlers with the appropriate buoyancy vests and systems, who are also familiar with the risks of using them (entanglement, especially with other equipment, is an issue that makes it important to know what you’re doing when working with personal tethers). However, for most of us fishing coastal waters recreationally, using leashes on paddles and rods should provide enough security to prevent being separated from our kayak without the need for a personal tether.
Another area worth considering when paddling alone is terminal tackle. When running lures with multiple hooks or trebles, I like to close the barbs; there’s always the risk of a fish flailing free hooks around until they pin nearby flesh or clothing; ‘barbless’ hooks are much easier to extract. I also suggest removing terminal tackle from rods before returning to the beach, eliminating any chance of getting pinned if a tumble is taken while endeavouring to return to dry land.
Another safety pointer to consider involves preparing all baits before heading out on the water. When fishing solo, I’m often staying away from areas where buying bait is possible. At such times I like to convert fresh-caught kahawai, trevally and mackerel into strip or butterfly baits – but choose to do so before launching to minimize any risks with using knives in kayak cockpits. It’s not that I consider it likely I’ll cut myself, it’s just that relatively minor incidents like this take on greater significance when there’s no one else around to lend a hand (for example, a cut finger or hand may make paddling difficult or even impossible).

Communication

To my mind, communication is one of the most important things a solo paddler can put in place; let someone know your intentions, keep them updated, and let them know what to do if you don’t report back by a certain time. After all, while we don’t want to dwell on the negatives of going it alone, it’s also important to minimise the potential risks these adventures entail. This can be very inconvenient, especially when in remote areas, but having someone keeping watch means the alarm will be raised in a timely manner if you can’t initiate it yourself. In part, this is also out of respect for those who may have to come looking for you, with a starting point helping to ensure a rapid and favourable search result.
Having a VHF radio will help you to stay in contact with the coastguard and is critical to communicating effectively with other boating traffic in the area. Add a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) to the mix and you’re doing the best you can to being able to raise the alarm if needed. It’s also a very good idea for solo paddlers to carry a strobe and flares so they can be seen as well as heard.

Let’s go fishing

Okay, enough of the serious stuff, what about the fishing? I start with selecting a ‘relaxed’ launching spot, one where I have easy access to the water and where I’m not confronted with a serious surf transition. Personally, I’d rather paddle a little extra distance from an easy launch area than sweat it getting the kayak to the water, especially if I then have to transition through some rough stuff. Yes, I’m there for an adventure, but I also want to enjoy myself.
Northland, Coromandel, the Bay of Plenty, and East Cape all have many spots with good access and shelter from varying wind directions and conditions. This is one of the big advantages of kayaking: our craft are so easy to transport, we can rapidly relocate to find shelter if the weather doesn’t play ball. If prepared to travel, there are few periods where a sheltered area to launch and fish from cannot be found.
In angling terms I find the only real difference between fishing solo and heading out with mates is making sure you have absolutely everything you need before leaving the beach. It’s definitely worthwhile taking a bit more care when preparing, paying particular attention to nets and/or gaffs, as there won’t be anyone to lend a hand with that big one. Nor will there be a mate to sponge tackle off if something important has been left behind. It’s often the ridiculously simple stuff that catches us out: hooks, pre-tied rigs, swivels, clips, jig heads, jigs, rigging tools (like your trusty braid scissors), so check the lot.

Don’t forget the camera!

This is something I’ve been guilty of in the past: having so much fun I forget to take the photos. I then cop it from mates when telling tales of high adventure and big fish, “If it’s not on film, it never happened!” Even if you don’t have a waterproof camera, or one in a dive housing, most of us have a mobile phone in a dry bag capable of taking reasonable images (and you should have it with you anyway as part of your communication kit).
Another bit of gear I’ve found invaluable when going solo is a tripod. Having one has enabled me to take many self-portraits with my catch over the years, adding the personal touch to mark successful trips. Tripods range from the little travel models with bendy legs easily carried aboard the kayak to the more traditional extendable-leg models grabbed from the car and set up to record the event afterwards. These offer a greater range of perspective and also make it much easier to collect low-light or flash images.

This is the time to explore new spots; you have the coast to yourself, with clear blue water and big fish (though this time I had my mate Milky there to snap the photos).
Remember to get photos however you can. If out there alone, don’t be shy about flagging down a boat and getting them to snap the shot; most are more than willing, and it’ll give you a chance to show off too.

Turning the clock back 20 years to when catching snapper from kayaks was so unheard of no one believed the writer’s success. Here he used the butt end of a fence post to support a camera, in lieu of a tripod.

If your mates reckon it’s too cold, leave them behind and go solo – the rewards speak for themselves.

Paddle and rod leashes: these are more than just a means of keeping equipment attached to the kayak, they also keep your kayak within reach if you end up in the water. Make sure they’re regularly inspected and kept in good condition.

Tripods, cameras and accessories; take the time to get stills and video of solo exploits. After all, ‘if it’s not on film it never happened…’

- See more at: http://www.fishing.net.nz/index.cfm/pageid/56/view/yes/editorialID/1396#sthash.mQo6Uvzr.dpuf

Catch and release

Although most anglers keep their catch for consumption, catch and release fishing is increasingly practiced, especially by fly anglers. The general principle is that releasing fish allows them to survive, thus avoiding unintended depletion of the population. For species such as marlin and muskellunge but, also, among few bass anglers, there is a cultural taboo against killing fish for food. In many parts of the world, size limits apply to certain species, meaning fish below a certain size must, by law, be released. It is generally believed that larger fish have a greater breeding potential. Some fisheries have a slot limit that allows the taking of smaller and larger fish, but requiring that intermediate sized fish be released. It is generally accepted that this management approach will help the fishery create a number of large, trophy-sized fish. In smaller fisheries that are heavily fished, catch and release is the only way to ensure that catchable fish will be available from year to year.

Removing the hook from a Bonito
The practice of catch and release is criticised by some who consider it unethical to inflict pain upon a fish for purposes of sport. Some of those who object to releasing fish do not object to killing fish for food. Adherents of catch and release dispute this charge, pointing out that fish commonly feed on hard and spiky prey items, and as such can be expected to have tough mouths, and also that some fish will re-take a lure they have just been hooked on, a behaviour that is unlikely if hooking were painful. Opponents of catch and release fishing would find it preferable to ban or to severely restrict angling. On the other hand, proponents state that catch-and-release is necessary for many fisheries to remain sustainable, is a practice that that generally has high survival rates, and consider the banning of angling as not reasonable or necessary.[2]
In some jurisdictions, in the Canadian province of Manitoba, for example, catch and release is mandatory for some species such as brook trout. Many of the jurisdictions which mandate the live release of sport fish also require the use of artificial lures and barbless hooks to minimise the chance of injury to fish. Mandatory catch and release also exists in the Republic of Ireland where it was introduced as a conservation measure to prevent the decline of Atlantic salmon stocks on some rivers.[3] In Switzerland, catch and release fishing is considered inhumane and was banned in September 2008.[4]
Barbless hooks, which can be created from a standard hook by removing the barb with pliers or can be bought, are sometimes resisted by anglers because they believe that increased escapement results. Barbless hooks reduce handling time, thereby increasing survival. Concentrating on keeping the line taut while fighting fish, using recurved point or "triple grip" style hooks on lures, and equipping lures that do not have them with split rings can significantly reduce escapement.

Live Bait - The Terminal End

Taken out of context, this title may seem redundant. To a fisherman however, it has a special

meaning. There are really two ends to a fishing line. One end is fixed to the reel, rod, and the anxious fisherman. The other end, the terminal end, is the one that is supposed to catch the fish. The terminal end however, will not catch fish unless it has some sort of hook, lure, bait, etc.. These additions are referred to as terminal tackle. The "terminal end" is most important to the fisherman but is often overlooked! Regardless of the investment in boats, rods, reels, time or effort, if terminal tackle is not appropriate to the job at hand, then all of that investment is wasted.

Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come. When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important consideration. I am using a Penn Power Stick, with a Penn 535 graphite Reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass. One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!". What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check and sharpen your hooks when necessary.


I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my 25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current conditions and water depth. The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient. The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels. When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.

Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best interest of the sport. Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.

Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed. One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.

One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a "BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.

The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.

Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti Copyright: Al Lorenzetti ©1990 Published in "The Fisherman" 1990

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Fishing Knotsback

How to use Power Pro Lin

Simply put, PowerPro is the ultimate combination of modern technology and old-fashioned fishing knowledge.
This is a handy sheet for the use of Power Pro or any other braided line.
Original Sources: http://www.shimanofish.com.au/publish/content/global_fish/en/au/index/articles/how_to_use_power_pro.html


Using Power Pro
Spooling Up
Unlike monofilament, PowerPro will not stretch on the reel and cling to the barrel. This can result in line sliding around the barrel, which can seem like a problem with your drag mechanism. Rest assured, your equipment is fine. To avoid slippage, attach PowerPro to your spool using one of these methods:
If your reel has a hole or knob on the barrel, use it.
Leave at least 5 to 10 yards of monofilament on the reel (enough to cover the bottom of the spool) before attaching PowerPro with a Uni to Uni splice. Put a piece of compressible tape on the barrel before attaching PowerPro.
Setting the Hook
Anglers on Saturday morning TV shows often set the hook in bass like Samurai warriors beheading the enemy. This may be a fine technique with monofilament line, but PowerPro doesn't require such a violent motion. When you get a strike, relax; a gentle snap of your wrist will set the hook. Because PowerPro doesn't stretch like nylon lines, you won't get that rubber-band effect. Every inch you move your rod tip equals an inch of movement at the lure.
Setting your drag
PowerPro lines are so small for their strength that you may be tempted to set your drag higher than normal, but remember, your rod or reel may not be designed to handle the same unbelievable loads as your line. To make full use of PowerPro's amazing sensitivity without risking damage to your equipment, try one of the following tips:
1. Set your drag to match the weakest component in your tackle system.
2. Set your drag to match the size of mono line you would normally use.
3. When using ultralight equipment or line (3 to 10lb. test) set your drag to no more than 1/3 of the line's rated strength. You can check the drag with a fish scale.
At lower drag settings, a little extra line may pay out at the hookset, compensating for PowerPro's lack of stretch.

Albright Knots

For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - stronger knot
1.Make a loop in the mono, and hold it with your left hand. Double 30" of PowerPro to create a 15" two-strand section. Pass this through the mono loop.
2.Wrap the PowerPro loosely around the fingertip of the hand you're using to hold the mono, then wrap the PowerPro around itself and the mono 20 to 25 times. Work toward the end of the loop, keeping your wraps tight and snug.
3.Run the PowerPro back through the mono loop so it exits on the same side it entered.
4.Wet the PowerPro, and tug on the standing line and tag end to jam your wraps tightly together, moving them toward the end of the loop.
5.Pull both standing lines to tighten the knot, then use soft-jawed pliers or a gloved hand to pull the knot tighter. Pull both standing lines at once to make sure the knot is secure.
6.Tie a Lock.

Lock Knots

To finish the Albright or Reverse Albright
1.Loop the PowerPro tag end around the standing PowerPro, then pass the tag end through this loop three times.
2.Pull the tag end to tighten the wraps, then trim your tag ends.

No Name Knots

For tying PowerPro to Fluorocarbon/Mono shock leader
1.Make figure 8 loop on leader
2.Insert PowerPro into figure 9 loop
3.Wrap PowerPro 12 times and 12 times back to the other direction
4.Insert PowerPro back into figure 8 loop
5.Cinch leader tightly
6.Pull main PowerPro slowly then pull PowerPro tag-end slowly and pull both main and tag-end of PowerPro tightly
7.Make a half hitch twice on tag-end
8.Cut the tag-end of PowerPro and leader

Palomar Knots

For tying terminal tackle - easy knot
1.Make a 10" loop in the line, then pass it through the eye of your tackle.
2.If the eye is big enough, pass the loop through a second time.
3.Tie a simple overhand knot, but don't pull it tight.
4.Pass your tackle through the loop.
5.Pull on your standing line to tighten the knot, then trim

Reverse Knots

For tying PowerPro to mono of larger diameter - easy knot
1.Double your PowerPro, leaving a 1/2" loop at the end. Wrap the PowerPro around the mono 10 to 12 times, leaving your loop open and opposite the mono tag end.
2.Pass the mono tag end through the PowerPro loop.
3.Pull on both lines to tighten the knot, jamming the wraps together.
Tie a Lock.

Uni Knots

For tying terminal tackle-stronger knot
1.Pass the line through the eye of your tackle at least twice, leaving 12" for your knot.
2.Loop the tag end around the standing line, then pass the tag end through your loop 8 to 10 more times.
3.Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the 8-10 wraps snug down neatly.
4.Pull the standing line to jam the knot against your tackle eye, then trim the tag end.

Uni to Uni

For tying PowerPro to mono of similar diameter
1.Lay PowerPro and monofilament parallel, with 12" to 18" tag ends facing opposite directions.
2.Loop the tag end of the mono around both lines, then pass the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end through your loop 5 to 6 more times. Pull the tag end to tighten the knot, making sure the wraps snug down neatly.
3.Repeat step #2 using the PowerPro tag end, but use 8 to 10 wraps.
4.Pull on the standing lines to jam the two knots together tightly.
5.Trim the PowerPro tag end about

Wind on Leader Knots

For Loop to Loop connection between PowerPro to Shimano Wind-On Leader
1.Make Bimini-twist on PowerPro main line
2.Pass loop on Wind-On Leader through loop of PowerPro
3.Hold both main line loop and wind-on loop by two fingers, pass end of Wind-On through the main line loop. Pass end of wind-on through the main line loop again
4.Repeat this 2-3 times
5.Slowly pull both lines by making even lengths and cinch to complete

Photo

Petua

Jaga peralatan memancing seperti isteri

Oleh Nuri Angkasa

MENYAYANGI peralatan memancing jangan sampai melebihi daripada menyayangi isteri atau keluarga. Ini kerana kebahagiaan berumah tangga bergantung pada pasangan suami isteri dan anak. Namun menjaga peralatan memancing adalah satu amalan baik kerana peralatan yang berada dalam keadaan yang baik pasti dapat menjamin hasil tangkapan yang baik selain keselamatan pemancing itu sendiri ketika berada di tengah laut.

MENYAYANGI peralatan memancing jangan sampai melebihi daripada menyayangi isteri atau keluarga. Ini kerana kebahagiaan berumah tangga bergantung pada pasangan suami isteri dan anak. Namun menjaga peralatan memancing adalah satu amalan baik kerana peralatan yang berada dalam keadaan yang baik pasti dapat menjamin hasil tangkapan yang baik selain keselamatan pemancing itu sendiri ketika berada di tengah laut.

Peralatan yang perlu dijaga dengan rapi terutama peralatan seperti mata kail, pisau, tali perambut, kekili dan joran dapat memainkan peranan penting dalam masa melakukan aktiviti memancing.

Kebaikan ini dinyatakan sendiri oleh beberapa orang ahli pemancing antarabangsa ketika memberikan pendapat yang boleh diguna pakai atau jadikan petua.

Menjaga alat memancing sangat perlu dilakukan sebelum atau selepas melakukan aktiviti memancing kerana peralatan ini dapat menjamin keselesaan memancing walaupun berdepan spesies ikan besar, kata Pak Dol sambil mengakui peralatan yang kurang sempurna dan keadaan yang dilakukan dalam kelam kabut pastinya menjadikan suasana memancing lebih buruk.

Justeru, Petua Pak Nuri kali mengajak kaki pancing sama ada memancing di laut mahu pun di sungai, tasik atau paya supaya mempunyai sikap sayang kepada peralatan memancing dan meletakkan tahap penjagaan yang rapi pada setiap masa dengan tidak meninggalkan peralatan di sudut dapur atau ruang yang tidak berjaga hingga berbulan lamanya.

Sikap buruk begini bukan saja pemancing berdepan dengan tidak dapat merasa keselesaan memancing malah akan berputih mata kerana dengan mudah diputuskan tali perambut yang sudah lapuk. Bukan begitu caranya kita menyayangi peralatan memancing dengan membiarkan tanpa diusik dan mengambilnya semula bila diperlukan.

“Itu bukan sayang, tapi kejam,” tambah Pak Dol lagi yang mempamerkan peralatan memancingnya yang disusun rapi dalam sebuah bilik di rumahnya. Joran memancing laut diasingkan daripada joran memancing sungai dan tasik. Begitu juga kekili ditempatkan berasingan.

“Bilik ini tak siapa pun dibenarkan masuk,” tambah isterinya sambil menjeling sinis pada Pak Dol yang tersenyum sambil ketawa.

“Kita kena sayang dan menjaga baik joran pancing dan peralatannya seperti menjaga isteri barulah dapat mesranya,” kata Pak Dol yang penuh makna.

Pengakuan ini memberi erti yang mendalam sambil mengharapkan pemancing harus menyayangi peralatan memancing seperti sayangkan isteri supaya dapat bermesra dan berjaya meraih rezeki lumayan - InsyaAllah.

Sumber:  http://joran.bharian.com.my/Current_News/Joran/News/Petua/20090508112613/Article/index_html

Raja Udang Tomman

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Raja Udang Tomman

TCE Takles menampilkan kekili menegak Raja Udang Tomman yang terbaru kepada pemancing yang gemarkan aktiviti memancing laut dan air tawar. Dilengkapi gegelung aluminium yang diperkuatkan dengan satu alas bebola bakal memberikan keselesaan kepada pemancing untuk menaikkan ikan skala sederhana dan besar.

 

Raja Udang Tomman

TCE Takles menampilkan kekili menegak Raja Udang Tomman yang terbaru kepada pemancing yang gemarkan aktiviti memancing laut dan air tawar. Dilengkapi gegelung aluminium yang diperkuatkan dengan satu alas bebola bakal memberikan keselesaan kepada pemancing untuk menaikkan ikan skala sederhana dan besar.

Turut dipertingkatkan, sistem keseimbangan rotor, pengayuh tahan karat berkeupayaan tinggi ketika berada di air masin. Disesuaikan juga dengan penggera ketika ikan meragut umpan.

Produk ini pasti memuaskan anda apabila memilikinya. Tersedia dalam warna perak/hitam dan boleh memuatkan tali sehingga 70 meter dengan diameter 0.25 milimeter. Untuk pertanyaan hubungi TCE Tackles di talian 04-4844524.



Bot Marine Explorer E320

Explorer Marin Centre Sdn Bhd menampilkan edisi terbaru produknya kepada peminat bot yang gemarkan aktiviti memancing atau menjadikannya sebagai bot komersial di laut dan sungai.

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Pilihan deck sama ada jenis terbuka atau tertutup serta rekaan bentuk terkini dan dilengkapi enjin sehingga 225 kuasa kuda, tidak memberi sebarang masalah untuk meredah ombak di mana-mana perairan. Maklumat lanjut hubungi 03-89457258 atau layari laman web www.explorermarine.com.my.


52 Quart Xtreme Cooler Coleman

Universal Fitness & Leisure Sdn Bhd, memperkenalkan kotak sejuk 52 Quart Xtreme Cooler untuk muatan isian barangan supaya tahan lebih lama ketika melakukan aktiviti perkhemahan, memburu dan memancing dalam hutan dan kawasan pergunungan

Ciri-ciri produk ini, berupaya menyimpan sebanyak 82 tin minuman sehingga lima hari dengan keadaan suhu 90 darjah celsius, dilengkapi dua pemegang untuk memudahkan dibawa ke mana-mana dan selain itu terbina daripada bahan tahan lasak.

Saiz luaran 27.75" x 14.95" x 17.25’ dan dalaman 20.5" x 8.75" x 12.25". Untuk pertanyaan lanjut hubungi UFL Outdoors di talian 03-22825721.

Sumber:  
http://joran.bharian.com.my/Current_News/Joran/News/ProdukBaru/20100116105257/Article/index_html

Tackle Test: Polarized Sunglasses Are a Must Have For Fishermen

Tackle Test: Polarized Sunglasses Are a Must Have For Fishermen

 

by Todd Kuhn

Admittedly, I’m not much of a “fashion” kind of guy when it comes to fishing gear. Functionality is more my game. My favorite item being a pair of six-pocket, standard army issue pants.
As the name implies, they’re endowed with six pockets for all the “stuff” I need on a regular basis: my cell phone, wallet, reading glasses, bags of worms, beef jerky, contour maps, the occasional Boca grip, grocery list, spray-on worm goop and pliers. On occasion, there might be a half eaten sandwich in there too — when the biting is just too good to choke down the entire deli treat. Packs of Lance Nip-E-Cheese crackers nestle nicely in the cavernous camouflaged pockets too.
What’s odd is that of all the fishing gear I have, I rely on my polarized glasses more than most, yet I never give them a second thought. I’m of the opinion that a quality pair of peeps should be standard issue for every serious fisherman.
For example, I was out with a fishing buddy on a local lake, running the trolling motor and looking for signs of anything that might bite. While peering into the water I saw a bed with a gargandous female on it. Yikes! I eased the boat back around and told my buddy to come up front and check out the find.
As I pointed her out to him, he leaned closer and said, “Where?” Keep in mind this fish was big enough to swallow a small dairy cow. I pointed again, my arms flailing in even more exaggerated gestures, gruffing “right there!” He was still lost. After a few disparaging comments about his advancing age, family lineage and having lost his eyesight, I glanced at his sunglasses: he found that gem in the dollar bin. No wonder my buddy was blind as a bat to the world around him.

For those in the know, a quality pair of polarized glasses is a must when angling. Quality polarized glasses remove glare from the water’s surface and filter the sun’s harmful ultra-violet rays while providing a distortion-free field of view. Cheap sunglasses do none of these.

So if you’re thinking about getting a pair of glasses, there are two types of lenses available: glass and polycarbonate. Both offer unique advantages.

Glass lenses don’t scratch but they’re heavier than polycarbonate. Polycarbonate lenses on the other hand, scratch easier, but are lighter and offer protection against flying objects.

I recently tried a pair from Numa Sport Optics. Numa products are developed by military Special Forces personnel searching for rugged eyewear that would stand up to the rigors of combat. A tall order for sure.

I found my Numa’s very light thanks to their proprietary frame material. The polycarbonate lenses are very scratch resistant, while offering protection against unwanted flying objects. You know the stuff; slip-sinkers, jigs, topwater baits and anything you find yourself dodging as it whistles by your head. Not to mention those giant (and particularly juicy) bugs when you’re blistering across the lake.

My Numa’s had broad temple arms that keep stray sunlight from entering through the periphery of the frames. Nice. After a few days on the water, I can recommend the Numa’s wholeheartedly. Oh, and for all the other fashionistas out there just like me, rest assured, they look really cool too. ($139.99)



Article Source:    http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/gone-fishin%E2%80%99/2012/03/tackle-test-polarized-sunglasses-are-must-have-fishermen

Artificial fly

 

Classic 19th Century Artificial fly-The Triumph

An artificial fly or fly lure is a type of fishing lure, usually used in the sport of fly fishing (although they may also be used in other forms of angling). In general, artificial flies are the bait which fly fishers present to their target species of fish while fly fishing. Artificial flies are constructed by fly tying, in which furs, feathers, thread or any of very many other materials are tied onto a fish hook.^[1] Artificial flies may be constructed to represent all manner of potential freshwater and saltwater fish prey to include aquatic and terrestrial insects, crustaceans, worms, baitfish, vegetation, flesh, spawn, small reptiles, amphibians, mammals and birds, etc. Effective artificial fly patterns are said to be killing flies because of their ability to put fish in the creel for the fly fisher. There are thousands of artificial fly patterns, many of them with descriptive and often idiosyncratic names.

Contents

Construction

Fly tying is a common practice in fly fishing, considered by many anglers an important part of the fly fishing experience. Many fly fishers tie their own flies, either following patterns in books, natural insect examples, or using their own imagination. The technique involves attaching small pieces of feathers, animal fur, and other materials on a hook in order to make it attractive to fish. This is made by wrapping thread tightly around the hook and tying on the desired materials. A fly is sized according to the width of the hook gap; large or longer flies are tied on larger, thicker, and longer hooks.

 Types

Generally, fly patterns are considered either "imitations" or "attractors". Imitations seek to deceive fish through the life-like imitation of insects on which the fish may feed. Imitators do not always have to be precisely realistic in appearance; they may derive their lifelike qualities when their fur or feathers are immersed in water and allowed to move in the current. Attractors, which are often brightly colored, seek to draw a strike by arousing an aggression response in the fish. Famous attractors are the Stimulator and Royal Wulff flies.

 History

First known illustration of a fishing fly from 4th. edition (1652) of John Dennys's The Secrets of Angling, first published in 1613, probably the earliest poetical English treatise on Angling.,^[2][3]

The first literary reference to flies and fishing with flies was in Ælian’s Natural History probably written about 200 A.D. That work discussed a Macedonian fly. The Treatyse on Fysshynge with an Angle was published (1496) within The Boke of St. Albans attributed to Dame Juliana Berners. The book contains, along with instructions on rod, line and hook making, dressings for different flies to use at different times of the year. Probably the first use of the term Artificial fly came in Izaac Walton's The Compleat Angler (1653),^[4]

Oh my good Master, this morning walk has been spent to my great pleasure and wonder: but I pray, when shall I have your direction how to make Artificial flyes, like to those that the Trout loves best?^[5]

Frontpiece from Bowlker's Art of Angling (1854) showing a variety of artificial flies^[6]

The 1652 4th. edition of John Dennys's The Secrets of Angling , first published in 1613, contains the first known illustration of an artificial fly.
By the early 19th century, the term artificial fly was being routinely used in angling literature much like this representative quote from Thomas Best's A Concise Treatise on the Art of Angling (1807) to refer to all types of flies used by fly fishers.

The art of artificial fly-fishing, certainly has the pre-eminence over the other various methods that are used to take fishes in the art of angling^[7]

Although the term fly was a reference to an imitation of some flying insect, by the mid-19th century the term fly was being applied to a far greater range of imitation.^{[original research?]}

The term fly is applied by sea fishermen to a certain arrangement of feathers, wax, etc., which I am about to describe the manufacture of, and which may be used with considerable success in mackerel, basse, and pollack fishing. I am not disposed to think, however, that such baits are ever mistaken by the fish which they are intended to capture for flies; but the number used, the way in which they are mounted, viz., several on one trace, and the method of their progress through the water, rather leads me to the belief that they are mistaken for a number of small fry, and treated accordingly.^[8]

Imitation

Illustration of a large Pike fly (1865)^[9]

A major concept in the sport of fly fishing is that the fly imitates some form of fish prey when presented to the fish by the angler. As aquatic insects such as Mayflies, Caddisflies and Stoneflies were the primary prey being imitated during the early developmental years of fly fishing, there were always differing schools of thought on how closely a fly needed to imitate the fish's prey.
In the mid to late 19th century, those schools of thought, at least for trout fishing were: the formalists (imitation matters) and the colourists (color matters most).^[10] Today, some flies are called attractor patterns because in theory, they do not resemble any specific prey, but instead attract strikes from fish. For instance, Charles Jardine, in his 2008 book "Flies, Ties and Techniques," speaks of imitators and attractors, categorizing the Royal Wulff as an attractor and the Elk Hair Caddis as an imitator, whereas "... in sea trout and steelhead fishing there is a combination of imitation and attraction involved in fly construction".^[11] Paul Schullery in American Fly Fishing - A History (1996) explains however that although much has been written about the imitation theories of fly design, all successful fly patterns must imitate something to the fish, and even a perfect imitation attracts strikes from fish. The huge range of fly patterns documented today for all sorts of target species-trout, salmon, bass and panfish, pike, saltwater, tropical exotics, etc. are not easily categorized as merely imitative, attractors or something else.^[12]

 Contemporary fly types and illustrative examples

The categorization of artificial flies has evolved considerably in the last 200 years as writers, fly tiers and fishing equipment retailers expound and promote new ideas and techniques. Additionally, as the popularity of fly fishing expanded globally to new and exotic target species, new flies and genera of flies came into being. There are many subtypes in some of these categories especially as they apply to trout flies. As well, any given pattern of artificial fly might well fit into multiple categories depending on its intended use. The following categorization with illustrative examples is derived from the following major artificial fly merchants offerings.

• Orvis - An American Fly Fishing Retailer in business since 1856 ^[13]
• Farlows of London - A British Fly Fishing Retailer in business since 1840^[14]
• Umpqua Feather Merchants - An American artificial fly manufacturer and wholesaler in business since 1972^[15]

 Dry flies

Dry flies are designed to be buoyant, or to float on the surface of the water. Dry flies typically represent the adult form of an aquatic or terrestrial insect. Dry flies are generally considered freshwater flies.^[16]

Dry flies

The Adams - A typical dry fly Orange Stimulator - A caddisfly or grasshopper imitation Royal Wulff - A classic attractor pattern Blue Wing Olive Dry Fly

Wet flies

Wet flies are designed to sink below the surface of the water. Wet flies have been tied in a wide variety of patterns to represent larva, nymphs, pupa, drowned insects, baitfish and other underwater prey. Wet flies are generally considered freshwater flies.^[17]

Wet flies

Grizzly King - A classic wet fly A Woolly Worm wet fly Professor wet fly Partridge and Orange soft-hackle

 Nymph flies

Nymphs are designed to resemble the immature form of aquatic insects and small crustaceans. Nymph flies are generally considered freshwater flies.^[18]

Nymphs

Brook's Montana Stonefly nymph Biot midge larve

 Emerger flies

Emergers are designed to resemble the not quite mature hatching aquatic insect as it leaving the water to become an adult insect. Emerger flies are generally considered freshwater trout flies.^[19]

 Streamer flies

Streamers are designed to resemble some form of baitfish or other large aquatic prey. Streamer flies may be patterned after both freshwater and saltwater prey species. Streamer flies are a very large and diverse category of flies as streamers are effective for almost any type of gamefish.^[20]

Streamer flies

Woolly Bugger - A universal streamer pattern Mickey Finn - A classic streamer pattern Clouser Deep Minnow - A popular streamer pattern used for both fresh and saltwater fishing Black Conehead Egg Sucking Leech Muddler Minnow - a sculpin imitation Schenk's White Minnow - A popular eastern chub imitation Royal Coachman Bucktail Articulated streamer

 Terrestrial flies

Terrestrials are designed to resemble non-aquatic insects, crustaceans and worms that could fall prey to feeding fish after being blown or falling onto the water.,^[21][22]

Terrestrial flies

Dave's Hopper, a terrestrial dry fly imitating a common grasshopper

 Bass and panfish flies, bugs and poppers

Bass and panfish flies, bugs and poppers are generally designed to resemble both surface and sub-surface insect, crustacean, baitfish prey consumed by warm-water species such as Largemouth bass or bluegill. This genus of flies generally includes patterns that resemble small mammals, birds, amphibians or reptiles that may fall prey to fish, or in the case of panfish flies, small aquatic insects or crustaceans.

Bass and panfish flies

Red Bass popper Bass popper on water Bluegill streamer EP style

 Pike and musky flies

Pike and musky flies are generally designed to resemble both surface and sub-surface crustacean, baitfish prey consumed by species of the genus Esox such as Northern Pike or Muskellunge. This genus of flies are larger than bass flies and generally includes patterns that resemble baitfish and small mammals, birds, amphibians or reptiles that may fall prey to fish.^[23]

[edit] Carp flies

Carp flies are designed to resemble various vegetative sources of food that carp feed on such as berries, seeds and flowers that may fall into the water.^[24]

 Salmon flies

Salmon flies are a traditional class of flies tied specifically to fly fish for Atlantic Salmon. Some salmon flies may be classified as lures while others may be classified as dry flies, such as the bomber. Salmon flies are also tied in classic and contemporary patterns.^[25]

Salmon flies

Durham Ranger - a Classic Salmon fly Green Highlander - a Classic Salmon fly

 Steelhead and Pacific salmon flies

Steelhead and Pacific salmon flies are designed for catching anadromous steelhead trout and pacific salmon in western North American and Great Lakes rivers.

 Egg flies

Egg flies are all designed to resemble the spawn of other fish that may be encountered in a river and consumed by the target species.

 Flesh flies

Flesh flies are designed to resemble the rotting flesh of pacific salmon encountered in a river and consumed by the target species.

Saltwater flies

Saltwater flies are a class of flies designed to represent a wide variety of inshore, offshore and estuarial saltwater baitfish, crustacean and other saltwater prey. Saltwater flies generally are found in both sub-surface and surface patterns.^[26]

Saltwater flies

White Lefty's Deceiver - An all purpose saltwater baitfish imitation Gold bendback shrimp fly Cockroach Deceiver (Lefty Kreh)

 Bonefish flies

Bonefish flies are a special class of saltwater flies used to catch Bonefish in shallow water. Bonefish flies generally resemble small crabs, shrimp or other crustaceans.^[27]

Bonefish flies

Crazy Charlie - A popular bonefish fly Bonefish shrimp fly

 Tarpon flies

Tarpon flies are a special class of saltwater flies used to catch Tarpon in both inshore and offshore waters. Tarpon flies generally represent small baitfish commonly preyed upon by tarpon.^[27]

Tarpon flies

Stu Apte Classic Tarpon Fly

 Striped bass flies

Striped bass flies are a special class of freshwater-saltwater fly used to catch Striped Bass in freshwater, inshore and offshore waters. Striped bass flies generally represent small baitfish commonly preyed upon by striped bass.