Kayak fishing - on your own

This month I was supposed to have been on a trip exploring Cuvier Island and the Merc’s to complement July’s article on setting up for mother-ship trips.
Unfortunately, Tawhiri (the god of weather) had other ideas and our trip was blown out. The resulting swells were too big to safely launch the kayaks to chase the hapuku and kingfish we wanted, so we’ll rebook and bring the mother-ship story at a later date.
This month I’m also setting up for something at the other end of the spectrum – going solo!
With breaks in the weather, but everyone else tied up at work, I’ll be taking the opportunity to turn the clock back 20 years and head out on several kayak-fishing trips on my lonesome. It’s a unique experience these days to hit the water and be the only kayaker around. But winter is definitely the best time for this, as there’s plenty of room to camp, there’s no other traffic to disturb the fish, and the angling north of the Harbour Bridge is nothing short of superb.

Paddling alone – safety considerations

Kayak fishing is a relatively safe sport, but when going solo a little extra care is required. The key consideration – especially during winter – becomes weather conditions (aside from making sure you have the appropriate paddling skills). Remember, the water is cold, so be conservative; it makes a lot of sense to paddle and fish well within your level of expertise and save the rough stuff for times when others are around to assist. (Besides, it’s fun sharing the thrills with buddies who’re out there enjoying them, too.)
The next concern is how to deal with the unlikely event of a roll over. When going it alone, our biggest potential problem is somehow becoming separated from our craft. Ending up over the side might be the result of rough conditions, taking good conditions too lightly (very embarrassing, but it happens!), or as a result of big, unruly fish. Heavy string pullers can drag us in after them or break the line while under pressure, causing us to flip back over the other side of the kayak.
For most of us, the best way to ensure we stay connected with our kayak is to use a good leash system for the paddle and rods. Generally speaking, as kayak anglers we have one or another in our hands most of the time; so long as we don’t let go while tumbling into the water, there’s very little chance of losing contact with our kayak. The key point to remember is that paddle and rod leashes serve two purposes: they keep your equipment attached to the kayak, but can also keep you attached to your kayak. So make sure they’re regularly maintained and inspected for any signs of wear, and replace them as necessary, especially when paddling solo.
Personal tethers are another option that’s been discussed on several occasions in the past. These can be a good option for experienced paddlers with the appropriate buoyancy vests and systems, who are also familiar with the risks of using them (entanglement, especially with other equipment, is an issue that makes it important to know what you’re doing when working with personal tethers). However, for most of us fishing coastal waters recreationally, using leashes on paddles and rods should provide enough security to prevent being separated from our kayak without the need for a personal tether.
Another area worth considering when paddling alone is terminal tackle. When running lures with multiple hooks or trebles, I like to close the barbs; there’s always the risk of a fish flailing free hooks around until they pin nearby flesh or clothing; ‘barbless’ hooks are much easier to extract. I also suggest removing terminal tackle from rods before returning to the beach, eliminating any chance of getting pinned if a tumble is taken while endeavouring to return to dry land.
Another safety pointer to consider involves preparing all baits before heading out on the water. When fishing solo, I’m often staying away from areas where buying bait is possible. At such times I like to convert fresh-caught kahawai, trevally and mackerel into strip or butterfly baits – but choose to do so before launching to minimize any risks with using knives in kayak cockpits. It’s not that I consider it likely I’ll cut myself, it’s just that relatively minor incidents like this take on greater significance when there’s no one else around to lend a hand (for example, a cut finger or hand may make paddling difficult or even impossible).

Communication

To my mind, communication is one of the most important things a solo paddler can put in place; let someone know your intentions, keep them updated, and let them know what to do if you don’t report back by a certain time. After all, while we don’t want to dwell on the negatives of going it alone, it’s also important to minimise the potential risks these adventures entail. This can be very inconvenient, especially when in remote areas, but having someone keeping watch means the alarm will be raised in a timely manner if you can’t initiate it yourself. In part, this is also out of respect for those who may have to come looking for you, with a starting point helping to ensure a rapid and favourable search result.
Having a VHF radio will help you to stay in contact with the coastguard and is critical to communicating effectively with other boating traffic in the area. Add a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) to the mix and you’re doing the best you can to being able to raise the alarm if needed. It’s also a very good idea for solo paddlers to carry a strobe and flares so they can be seen as well as heard.

Let’s go fishing

Okay, enough of the serious stuff, what about the fishing? I start with selecting a ‘relaxed’ launching spot, one where I have easy access to the water and where I’m not confronted with a serious surf transition. Personally, I’d rather paddle a little extra distance from an easy launch area than sweat it getting the kayak to the water, especially if I then have to transition through some rough stuff. Yes, I’m there for an adventure, but I also want to enjoy myself.
Northland, Coromandel, the Bay of Plenty, and East Cape all have many spots with good access and shelter from varying wind directions and conditions. This is one of the big advantages of kayaking: our craft are so easy to transport, we can rapidly relocate to find shelter if the weather doesn’t play ball. If prepared to travel, there are few periods where a sheltered area to launch and fish from cannot be found.
In angling terms I find the only real difference between fishing solo and heading out with mates is making sure you have absolutely everything you need before leaving the beach. It’s definitely worthwhile taking a bit more care when preparing, paying particular attention to nets and/or gaffs, as there won’t be anyone to lend a hand with that big one. Nor will there be a mate to sponge tackle off if something important has been left behind. It’s often the ridiculously simple stuff that catches us out: hooks, pre-tied rigs, swivels, clips, jig heads, jigs, rigging tools (like your trusty braid scissors), so check the lot.

Don’t forget the camera!

This is something I’ve been guilty of in the past: having so much fun I forget to take the photos. I then cop it from mates when telling tales of high adventure and big fish, “If it’s not on film, it never happened!” Even if you don’t have a waterproof camera, or one in a dive housing, most of us have a mobile phone in a dry bag capable of taking reasonable images (and you should have it with you anyway as part of your communication kit).
Another bit of gear I’ve found invaluable when going solo is a tripod. Having one has enabled me to take many self-portraits with my catch over the years, adding the personal touch to mark successful trips. Tripods range from the little travel models with bendy legs easily carried aboard the kayak to the more traditional extendable-leg models grabbed from the car and set up to record the event afterwards. These offer a greater range of perspective and also make it much easier to collect low-light or flash images.

This is the time to explore new spots; you have the coast to yourself, with clear blue water and big fish (though this time I had my mate Milky there to snap the photos).
Remember to get photos however you can. If out there alone, don’t be shy about flagging down a boat and getting them to snap the shot; most are more than willing, and it’ll give you a chance to show off too.

Turning the clock back 20 years to when catching snapper from kayaks was so unheard of no one believed the writer’s success. Here he used the butt end of a fence post to support a camera, in lieu of a tripod.

If your mates reckon it’s too cold, leave them behind and go solo – the rewards speak for themselves.

Paddle and rod leashes: these are more than just a means of keeping equipment attached to the kayak, they also keep your kayak within reach if you end up in the water. Make sure they’re regularly inspected and kept in good condition.

Tripods, cameras and accessories; take the time to get stills and video of solo exploits. After all, ‘if it’s not on film it never happened…’

- See more at: http://www.fishing.net.nz/index.cfm/pageid/56/view/yes/editorialID/1396#sthash.mQo6Uvzr.dpuf

When You Want Tips On Hobbies

When You Want Tips On Hobbies, They're Here

Author: Sumner Rooney |            

            

You'll learn a lot and expand your skills. Lots of hobbies may be converted into profitable businesses. If you want the ideal hobby, this piece is for you.
Fishing can be quite a fun hobby to have. Fishing is a hobby that never gets old. It is something that has been around forever. You do have to use patience, but the excitement of catching a big fish is worth it. Either chow down on the fish or toss it back.
Taking up a good hobby can help reduce stress and anxiety in your life, especially after having worked all day. Understand that hobbies do not have to be taken seriously like your job. As long as it is something you love to do, and does not harm others, it is a great thing to do.
Combine weight loss with your new hobby. Why not try training for a marathon, or learning to swim with the children. Doing exercise as your hobby is good for your general health.
Riding a horse is a hobby that can be done outdoors. When riding, you can explore unmarked trails, find new animals, and get a glimpse of the great outdoors in a way you never have. Additionally, your horse can become a good friend and bring you much closer to nature.
Be sure your hobby doesn't take up all of your time. It is great to have a hobby of course, but you need to make sure that you have time to do the things in your life you have to do. If activities related to your hobby are hindering other areas of your life, then it is time to reduce your involvement.
If making money in a hobby is important, think about the unique things that you love to do. What can you do that nobody else can do? Write down your ideas of things that others don't like to do, but you do. This is the perfect start.
Stargazing is a great hobby to get involved with. Star gazing is cool because you get to experience outer space in a way that goes beyond a normal glance at the night sky. You can expand your mind to include thoughts of creation and existence. You simply need dark and a telescope.
Sewing is a wonderful hobby to undertake. You can make anything from pillows to dresses to hair bows. Sewing allows you to create items that you will enjoy for years to come.
Think about taking up collecting as a new and rewarding hobby. Today, the Internet can help you determine value, so you can find out what you need to get the most return on any investments. Use eBay and other similar sites to sell your items for the highest price.
Bring someone along with you as you enjoy your hobby. When you set a time to enjoy your hobby with another, you will be less likely to neglect it. It also allows you to bond with others that have the same types of interests as you.
You see how easy it is to come up with a hobby that the family can indulge themselves in. Use these tips to get a hobby for your family. Have fun, and always keep these tips close by for great ideas about hobbies that anyone can use.

                                                                               

                               

About the author:Reaching your objectives is actually possible when you have a background in awards, and the basic understanding of principles that are relevant. And if you would like to procrastinate, it will have a similar ill effect. If you really would like thing

Article Source:  ArticlesExpert

Catch and release

Although most anglers keep their catch for consumption, catch and release fishing is increasingly practiced, especially by fly anglers. The general principle is that releasing fish allows them to survive, thus avoiding unintended depletion of the population. For species such as marlin and muskellunge but, also, among few bass anglers, there is a cultural taboo against killing fish for food. In many parts of the world, size limits apply to certain species, meaning fish below a certain size must, by law, be released. It is generally believed that larger fish have a greater breeding potential. Some fisheries have a slot limit that allows the taking of smaller and larger fish, but requiring that intermediate sized fish be released. It is generally accepted that this management approach will help the fishery create a number of large, trophy-sized fish. In smaller fisheries that are heavily fished, catch and release is the only way to ensure that catchable fish will be available from year to year.

Removing the hook from a Bonito
The practice of catch and release is criticised by some who consider it unethical to inflict pain upon a fish for purposes of sport. Some of those who object to releasing fish do not object to killing fish for food. Adherents of catch and release dispute this charge, pointing out that fish commonly feed on hard and spiky prey items, and as such can be expected to have tough mouths, and also that some fish will re-take a lure they have just been hooked on, a behaviour that is unlikely if hooking were painful. Opponents of catch and release fishing would find it preferable to ban or to severely restrict angling. On the other hand, proponents state that catch-and-release is necessary for many fisheries to remain sustainable, is a practice that that generally has high survival rates, and consider the banning of angling as not reasonable or necessary.[2]
In some jurisdictions, in the Canadian province of Manitoba, for example, catch and release is mandatory for some species such as brook trout. Many of the jurisdictions which mandate the live release of sport fish also require the use of artificial lures and barbless hooks to minimise the chance of injury to fish. Mandatory catch and release also exists in the Republic of Ireland where it was introduced as a conservation measure to prevent the decline of Atlantic salmon stocks on some rivers.[3] In Switzerland, catch and release fishing is considered inhumane and was banned in September 2008.[4]
Barbless hooks, which can be created from a standard hook by removing the barb with pliers or can be bought, are sometimes resisted by anglers because they believe that increased escapement results. Barbless hooks reduce handling time, thereby increasing survival. Concentrating on keeping the line taut while fighting fish, using recurved point or "triple grip" style hooks on lures, and equipping lures that do not have them with split rings can significantly reduce escapement.

Live Bait - The Terminal End

Taken out of context, this title may seem redundant. To a fisherman however, it has a special

meaning. There are really two ends to a fishing line. One end is fixed to the reel, rod, and the anxious fisherman. The other end, the terminal end, is the one that is supposed to catch the fish. The terminal end however, will not catch fish unless it has some sort of hook, lure, bait, etc.. These additions are referred to as terminal tackle. The "terminal end" is most important to the fisherman but is often overlooked! Regardless of the investment in boats, rods, reels, time or effort, if terminal tackle is not appropriate to the job at hand, then all of that investment is wasted.

Live-bait fishing for trophy stripers is one of my favorite kinds of fishing. I have specialized in this type of fishing for many years. I have had the opportunity to try all types of tackle and terminal gear. In the course of this investigation I have had many successes and failures, all of which have led me to the combination that works most effectively. This is a natural process, and I am sure that I will continue to experiment to try to improve or adapt to changes as they come. When live-bait fishing, a well balanced, quality rod and reel is an important consideration. I am using a Penn Power Stick, with a Penn 535 graphite Reel, spooled with 25lb Ande line. This combination is light and sporting and yet powerful enough for the biggest of bass. One very important rule I believe in firmly is, "SIMPLE RIG-SHARP HOOK!". What does this mean when it comes to live-bait fishing? It means that the bait itself attracts the fish. Anything else that may distract the attention of the fish will reduce the chance for a pick-up and a hook-up! Keep the rig as basic as possible and always check and sharpen your hooks when necessary.


I do most of my live-bait fishing around the Fire Island Inlet on Long Island in New York. I use a very simple but effective terminal rig. I clinch knot a 3oz. drail to my 25lb line. I tie a double surgeon’s loop at one end of a four foot leader of 50lb mono and clip it to the snap swivel at the trailing end of the drail. I clinch knot the leader to a 6/0 - 8/0 live bait style hook and the rig is complete. The loop at the drail end of the leader allows for a quick replacement when necessary. The only variation to this rig might be an increase or a decrease in drail weight to match the current conditions and water depth. The change that might be required in drail weight is a simple one to accomplish. Simply go up or down by one ounce increments until just enough weight is present to maintain the bait within a few feet of the bottom. If you can lift the rod tip then quickly drop it and feel the drail touch bottom, the weight is sufficient. The most common baits used in live-bait fishing for striped bass are bunker and eels. When fishing eels I use only one type of hook in all situations, a short shank live bait style hook in 6/0 or 7/0 size. These hooks are very strong and usually quite sharp right out of the package. Don’t forget to check the point and put a file to it if it isn’t needle sharp. To hook the eel, the hook is run into the mouth and out an eye socket. This placement of the hook gives it a sure hold in tough tissue and also allows the eel to continue to pass water through its mouth and stay healthy and lively.

Fishing live bunker or any other live, hard bodied baitfish, requires more consideration. In the past, most anglers fished bunker using a 4/0 size treble hook. One point was inserted through the lower jaw, a second point through one nostril and the third remained unattached. This method is no longer acceptable as it results in many gut hooked fish that will not survive when released. A treble hook is almost impossible to remove cleanly once it has been swallowed beyond the narrow throat. In these memorable days of a revived striped bass fishery with size and bag limits, many bass must be returned to the water so that they may survive! The use of treble hooks is therefore not in the best interest of the sport. Considering an alternative to using treble hooks, I tried experimenting with single hook arrangements. I found that when hooked in any body part other than the head, the bait did not swim correctly in a hard running tide. I was not getting many pick-ups due to its unnatural action. I then tried hooking the bait in a non-vital part of the head. The action improved, and I was getting lots of pick-ups. However, due to the tough tissue in the head region of most baitfish, the hook would not pull free from the bait. I was getting pick-ups but pulling the hook on most fish.

Being determined I finally came up with a variation that has proven to work extremely well. I use a large #56 Berkley double-lock snap. I attach the small side of the snap to the eye of a single 7/0 or 8/0 live bait hook. This must be done in an orientation that sets the open large side of the snap turning opposite to the bend in the hook. I then use the hook or a needle to make a small hole in the tough head or nose tissue of the baitfish. The point of the large side of the snap is then passed from the top of the head or nose, through the hole, out the mouth and snapped closed. The hook remains free swinging along the side of the head. Fish caught with this rig are almost always mouth hooked meaning they may be released relatively unharmed. One additional hook arrangement should also be a part of the live-bait fisherman’s arsenal. Big bluefish have a nasty habit of attacking a bait from the tail and are therefore rarely hooked. Even if they do manage to get hooked, they almost always chew through the mono leader and are lost during the fight. For such situations I have devised another little addition to my tackle box. I prepare tail hooks on a short piece of vinyl coated braided or single strand wire. I make them about six inches long with a barrel swivel at one end and a 7/0 hook at the other end. If the bluefish show up I can quickly add the tail hook to my double-lock snap and use a rubber band to fasten the hook to the tail of the bait. I can then have fun catching and beating the bluefish at their game.

One additional point to consider for the safe release of fish in the spirit of conservation or when tagging, gaffing a fish that is going to be released is not acceptable! Fish that are to be released should be carefully netted and handled gently while onboard. Even netting is detrimental to the fish as it removes some of the natural protective slime from the body. When it is possible I use a device called a "BogaGrip" that locks onto the jaw of the fish. I simply lean over the side of the boat while holding the leader and lock it on the lower jaw. I can then remove the hook while the fish is still in the water or gently bring it aboard. It works quite well and it also has a built-in accurate scale for weighing your trophy. If the fish is brought into the boat, a wet towel placed over the head and eyes will keep it calm. Remember to return the fish to the water as soon as possible and not to handle it by the gills. Placing your hand in the gill slits can cause irreparable damage to the fish.

The "terminal end" is a critical part of fishing tackle. I have spent much time developing and perfecting terminal rigs that are effective. I have found this both challenging and rewarding. Experimenting and being innovative is part of what makes fishing so much fun! I hope my suggestions will work well for you.

Good Fishing, Capt. Al Lorenzetti Copyright: Al Lorenzetti ©1990 Published in "The Fisherman" 1990